quarta-feira, 19 de fevereiro de 2014

Frontón & Agujero by Carlos Padilla



Thanks

Canaries 2014

In the beginning of February and after finishing my semester at uni I decided to fly to the Canaries to go after this perfect swell for El Frontón. Well, it happens that this 4/5ft swell turned into a 10ft close out Frontón and the first days we ended up surfing in Agujero or what some people use to call "La Tuberia". Had some pretty decent tubes but unfortunately for my travel mate and photographer Ricardo Amaral, the wave breaks to far away for he's lenses and we couldn't managed to make any decent shot. It was still pretty amazing because It had been a while since I had a good barrel session and to train some pocket surfing.
After 3 days our local mate Miguel Romero arrived home from Erasmus and we moved to his place which was great because after this being my 4th time in Gran Canaria I finally had the sensation that I was having the chance to really know the place and the true Canarian culture! It definitely exceeded my expectation and ended up meeting some of the most beautiful places I've ever been!
By the end of the first week without surfing Frontón we finally saw another 2 possible surfeable days! The hype was strong and we ended up scoring both days. First day it was pretty windy and sketchy but I guess Ritchy took me one of my favourite shots so far that made the trip worth it haha(guess you would have to wait a while to see it). This day saw my mate Zé getting absolutely demolished by a thick set wave landing straight on his back! It was one of the gnarliest things I've ever seen and he ended up dislocating his foot. I guess it could've been a lot worse...
Day after and we had the opportunity to score Frontón again. This day was really good with no wind and good size but it was packed! Was pretty hard to get waves but ended up being a good free surf challenge and got me amped to start being a bit more competitive in the water. I guess it will be my main goal for this year because free surfing is getting really competitive these days and sometimes when the waves are pumping and it's crowded you have to learn to deal with it and place yourself wisely.

Well, even without scoring as many days of surf as we wanted it was definitely a remarkable experience with all the wonderful people that we met and good times we had, plus the amazing weather unlike Portugal's freezing winter!


Thanks to everyone specially Zé Pastel, Miguel Romero and he's family to let us crash at their pads and for the amazing hospitality!

With Love,

BO



The Portuguese Issue by Vert Magazine

http://issuu.com/vertmagazine/docs/portugueseissuebyvert?e=0/6761515

Double page of me shot by Ricardo Amaral:


Single page shot by me: